Green Horizons

Volume 8, Number 2
Spring 2004

Chef wins gold-medal with Missouri morels
As you are out enjoying the spring florals, some of the first things to flower are dogwood, red bud, violets and daffodils. You should also be on the lookout for morel mushrooms, especially on hillside slopes and near dying trees. For the past five years, the University of Missouri Center for Agroforestry (UMCA) has been conducting research to evaluate the cultivation of morel and other gourmet mushrooms as profitable crops to add value to agroforestry practices. UMCA researchers are physically mapping the location of each morel that fruits in a designated area with the ultimate goal of establishing and marketing natural populations of the wild morel mushroom. DNA samples from the morels are also being used to determine if the mushrooms will require growers to reseed them yearly.

Certainly the growing consumer demand for morels indicates a profitable market for landowners, including those harvested from a forest farming setting or through guided mushroom hunting. Chefs across the country are seeking morel mushrooms for special menu options, and the results can be quite creative. At the November Governor's Conference on Agriculture, hosted by the Missouri Department of Agriculture, the “AgriMissouri Chef Excellence Award” was awarded to St. Louis Chef Christopher Desens, the Executive Chef of Racquet Club Ladue, whose gold medal winning recipe features morel mushrooms.

Desens said his recipe for Morel Mushroom Pasta has been popular on the spring menu at the private club for the past three years and is enjoyable because of its simplicity.

“I like to let the flavors speak for themselves,” Desens said.

Desens’ award-winning morel mushroom recipe is listed below, which also features a variety of Missouri products. Happy hunting!

Morel Mushroom Pasta AgriMissouri Gold Medal Winner
2 ½ oz. Fresh Black Pepper Fettuccine
1 Tbs. Clarified Butter
2 tsp. Shallots, minced
½ cup morel mushrooms (Chef Desens recommends Ozark Forest Mushrooms)
¼ cup Asparagus, peeled, blanched and diced
1 Tbs. Stone Hill Winery Seyval
½ cup Heavy Cream
1 Tbs. Roasted Garlic
¼ cup Burger's Country Ham, diced
1 Tbs. Lemon Zest
1 Tbs. Fresh Basil, minced from Herb Gathering, Inc
1 tsp. Fresh Tarragon, minced from Herb Gathering, Inc
1 tsp. Fresh Parsley, minced from Herb Gathering, Inc
1 tsp. Fresh Chives, minced from Herb Gathering, Inc
2 Tbs. Whole Butter
¾ cup Parmesan Cheese
To Taste: Salt and Pepper from McCarthy Spice and Blends

In a large pot, bring water to a boil. Add salt and pasta. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat. Add clarified butter. Once the butter is hot, add the shallots and morel mushrooms. Allow to sauté for one minute. Add asparagus. After another minute, deglaze pan with Stone Hill Winery Seyval. Reduce heat and add the heavy cream and the roasted garlic. Stir and allow to reduce. Check the pasta. When done, add to the pan along with the rest of the ingredients. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve in a warm pasta bowl. Serves 1

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